Travelogue: El Salvador, May 2007, Part VI

Hola Todos,

I think I’ve finally acclimated over the last few days. Too bad this is my last full day here. I woke up Tuesday extremely hungry… and able to sleep at will. All of a sudden the heat is no longer affecting my appetite. Good thing – my shorts are getting so big that I’m developing a serious SoCal sag.

It’s been quiet in the bungalow. Only Flaco, Canuck2 and myself have been here the last couple days – and Flaco left this morning. Actually, Canuck2 has a Salvadoreño nickname – it’s Risitas (which means ’smiley’). My Salvadoreño name has been ‘Callado‘ as of a few days ago. El Callado – the Quiet. Super. But true in a way. When I get loaded around new people, I usually am a bit quiet at first. And, the Salvadoreños appear to call it like they see it when nick-naming gringos. If you’re fat, you’re gordo. Skinny – flaco. If you look asian – chino. None of it is to be taken personally, it’s all in good fun (and they only name the people they talk to – usually because the pronunciation of our names is foreign). Anyways, I occasionally hear ‘Callado!’ when I get a wave now.

The surf… it’s still good! It’s faded a bit, down to the consistent head-high sets w/ occasional clean-ups. The onshores have been more prevalent lately also. No rain for a week, the weather is setting up in it’s ´dry season´ mode. That just means I have to surf before 1pm. Today I was in the water at 9am, and if the truth be told – a little hungover…

Yesterday was the birthday party of the owner, Oscar. Since ‘Roca Sunzal’ restaurante could not be shut down, the party was help on the Mangle patio – yep, the bungalow. Plus it was a surprise party, and we helped Denora set up – and we three were invited due to our ‘nicknamed’ status.

It was a great party! A piñata, a mariachi band, great food, buckets o beer and shots for the macho, followed by a dance party that lasted into the night.

Wait.. hold on… this party needs a bit more description…

It was a surprise party. Complete with yelling people, noisemakers, and a mariachi band that started playing when Oscar arrived. The band played while food and drink was handed out to everyone – these fantastic stuffed bolillos with chicken and veggies.

The band made Oscar sit in a chair in front of everyone while they sang about his greatness. Then Oscar told the band to sing for Flaco since it was his last day here. Flaco Guanaco (Guanaco is Salvadoreño slang for a Salvadoreño, and it is a highest honor for a gringo to be referred to as ‘guanaco‘). Flaco Guanaco got a song – with his name substituted in the chorus, about a bandito who the chicas loved and chicos thought was cool.

After this was the piñata breaking, and the cake and candles – all with the band playing. The band left, there was a little bit of clean-up, the buckets of beer came out, and the real party began.

Like all parties, when the music starts… none of the guys want to be the first on the dance floor. All the chicas are lined up in chairs next to the floor waiting and looking and flirting. After a couple of songs of this, Oscar’s wife, Denora, dragged him out on the floor. She then made him dance with one of the teenage girls and grabbed Risitas and pulled him out. Once again, she passed Risitas to a teenage girl and pulled me out. (Flaco disappeared at that point). After a song, Denora danced with her husband, while the gringos danced with the teenage girls. Oh, there was much yelling and whistling going on about that. And lots of laughing. Howls of laughter, in fact. They were playing a meringue (which has a fast beat), and watching the gringos trying to lead. After an ill-executed double spin, an abuela moved her chair back a few feet from me and my partner. Now, I do not like being the first on the dance floor. However, everyone was having fun with it (hearty cries of ‘Callado!’ and ‘Risitas!’ along with the laughing). I think they appreciated that we were going for it, besides all the laughs and talk about girls dancing with us. One girl, in fact, would not let any other chica dance with Risitas. He better watch out or he’ll be married to her. Eventually, people started gettin on the floor. Much dancing and sweating happened last night.

That was a fun party. I got to meet (and try to talk to) everyone. Everyone was friendly and down to earth and just wanted to a good talk, or drink, or laugh, or dance. Denora´s father, a vaquero, said he would bring us some of his homemade moonshine to try tonight (it’s made from corn, called chaparro – I think). I hope I can handle it.

I’m a little sad that I have to go already. I’ve had a great trip so far – the people, the surf… everything! However, it’s time to surf the glass-off tonight and pack so I can get one more surf in before I leave for the airport tomorrow morning.

Salud, amor y paz,
el ‘Callado‘

(Read Epilogue)